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| Kandahar lady of rank, 1840 (c) |
The name of that lady of rank in the above painting was Begum Jan and she belonged to the Barakzai branch of Durrani Pashtuns.
James Rattrey (the painter) writes: "In continuation of the description of the dress and peculiarities of the women of Afghaunistaun, I take advantage of the opportunity offered, to introduce the portrait of a Baurikzye lady, by name Begum Jan."
Rattray does not tell us more about the subject of this portrait but adds that these ladies wore white shuttlecock Burqas when out of doors or taking horse exercise.
"When out of doors, or taking horse exercise, these ladies don an immense white sheet, reaching from the top of the skull-cap to the feet; a long square veil, attached by a clasp of gold or jewels to the back of the head, conceals the face, across which is an opening of net-work, to admit light and air. This dress is called a “Boorkha.” It conceals the whole figure, all outline of which is so entirely lost, that a stranger, on first viewing a party of these shrouded beings flitting about him in the streets, might well be at a loss to guess to what class of creatures they belonged. In addition to the winding-sheet, they wear long loose white boots of calico, fastened by a silken garter (Dulakbund), above the knee, and turned back like a falling collar, in order to display the lining. The soles of these bag-like leggings are of shawl, and the garters, “in their glitt’ring tissues bear imblaz’d Holy memorials, acts of zeal and love Recorded eminent,” from the Koraun, with scrolls and birds; the loose boots and veils also are embroidered in white and coloured silks. They sit astride on horseback, generally behind their own husband, or one of their own sex―if alone, a man leads the horse."
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